Mauritius Uncovered

The islet has been rightly named (literally meaning coconut islet) because in the past it was used as a coconut plantation place by the French. But a cyclone later on demolished the harvest and it was thus abandoned. Years later, the islet has been privately renovated and made into a tourist attraction. Located in the south east of Mauritius off the famous Blue Bay beach, ile des deux cocos is a small islet calling for lazy sunbathing with a wonderful view of the south lagoons of Mauritius.

Small in size, the islet can accommodate a handful of people at a time (about a dozen or so) which thus allows for more intimacy for visitors. Beautiful views can be enjoyed on all sides of the islet. While the south part offers breathtaking views of the white foam of surf crashing angrily against the islet’s cliff, the north to west area has a strand of perfect white beach and abundant sunshine for sunbathing and relaxing. The water in that part of Mauritius is quite calm and an unbelievable turquoise spelling out swimming. Off the east coast, some black hard boulders can be seen along the beach. The mainland of Ile des deux cocos is mostly covered with native vegetation. Hammocks have been placed in between trees for a relaxing nap in the wild, free from all worries.

The islet is found right in the middle of the Blue Bay Marine Park declared so as it contains one of the richest marine flora and fauna around Mauritius. The park can be visited in a bottom glass boat where marine life can be seen right from the boat. Snorkeling is thus a common activity that can be enjoyed on ile des deux cocos and to explore the marine park and the numerous coral species and swim with multi colored fishes. Ile aux deux cocos is thus a great place to either relax under the shade of the filao trees or enjoy some proposed activities by the guides like volley ball competitions.
As for lunch, it is done in an open area with an open buffet serving a wide range of Mauritian cuisine, barbeques, salads, desserts and drinks (alcoholic and non alcoholic). The excursion package consists of the speed boat trip to the islet from the Blue Bay beach, welcoming drinks, loaning of snorkeling equipments, lunch, unlimited drinks and glass bottom visit of the marine park.

Also found on the islet is an ancient elegant mansion built by the British governor Sir Hesketh Bell who was a man of vision and taste. Having a mixture of oriental and European aura with a Mauritian interior, the mansion has been renovated into a villa which can be either visited during an excursion or even leased for a few nights. It consists of two bedrooms, dining room, living room, bathroom and porch all set in a modern elegant style for the comfort of the visitor. Additional improvements include air conditioning, TV, bathtub in the main room, phone, hair dryer, CD/DVD player and safe. A cook, waiter and security guard are also there to make your stay a success and invite you all over again.

This 137 hectares islet is found in the north east of Mauritius some 5km off Goodlands. It is closely associated with a number of smaller islets like Ilot Bernache and Ilot Calmi. Ile d’Ambre is covered with degraded forest, swamps and mudflats; walking around on the islet is thus quite restricted given the thick undergrowth except where specific paths have been created. The rims of the islet are bordered with mangrove trees which make access to the island a bit difficult except for a few places well known to those used to going there. The islet is currently under the aegis of the forestry service in Mauritius.

Flora and fauna
The islet used to harbor some important forest areas, but the introduction of predators led to the degradation of the environment. In the past Tecoma and Pine plantations were established there and today remnants of these can still be seen; some native palm species are also present though they do not show much regeneration signs. Amongst the animals, some reptiles like geckos, tenrecs, feral cats, rats have been noted on the islet. Some endemic butterflies like the Mauritian friar as well as birds like the grey white eye have also been seen on ile d’ambre. Amongst the mangrove trees are the Rhizophora mucronata and some stands of Brugueira gymnorhiza found on the coastline.

Activities
Since access is quite limited to the islet, visits of the mainland can be done from some specific points. Most usually, swimming, snorkeling and sunbathing can be done on close by Ilot Bernache, a tiny islet offering wonderful lazy moments with very few people around.

One of the most interesting activities associated with the islet is kayaking which is supervised and organized by experts. It can be done by both novice and pros since all safety measures are taken into consideration (safety gears, brief on safety regulations before the start of the trip, help when needed etc). Given the nature of the islet with muddy alleys and mangrove shades, kayaking can be enjoyed at ease in the peaceful environment.
Another common excursion around the islet is fishing which is organized by specific people. With the clear waters around and rich marine life, it is a very peaceful day out at sea hooking on multi colored fishes and huge squids all in the traditional ways.

Picnics, juices and water are usually offered as part of the excursion packages but it is recommended of visitors to bring their towels and other beach wear and paraphernalia.

Located in the south of the island in the village of Souillac, Gris Gris (so named because of the atmosphere of gloom always hanging around with a constant breeze blowing in the area) is a beach very different from all the other beaches in Mauritius. It is the only place around the island where coral reefs are altogether absent; this, coupled with the constant blowing of the south east trade winds over the sea, results in waves of amazing velocity and force. The swirling of the white foam coming to crash against the weather created cliffs can be observed in a totally serene place.

The actual beach itself is a thin stretch of white sand surrounded on one part by the rough sea and on the other part by cliffs atop of which is found a forest. Obviously, swimming is prohibited in the area. The crashing of waves can be observed along the upper cliffs whilst breathing in the salty air and feeling the splash of the cold water onto the face. It is advised to always take care when walking in the area to prevent slipping over the wet rocks. The sea can be observed either on the back cliffs or from up front where the cliffs jut out where you can feel the spray of the water on your face. Sitting onto the cliffs with feet dangling over the crashing waves, you can enjoy a peaceful moment with nature.

As the area has become more of a place of interest over the years, accommodations have been made for the public like ramps to protect people from leaning too close over, public toilets, lamp posts, dustbins, kiosks, benches to sit down and relax as well as parking facilities. It is easily accessible through a battered road amongst sugar cane fields and there are also banners leading to it. Very near the cliffs is a small restaurant called le Gris Gris Restaurant serving local Mauritian food.

A few metres off the Gris Gris cliffs is Le Souffleur (Blowhole), an amazing weather shaped chimney type rocky structure where the angry waves can go through and then blow out via the top opening. Also located in the area is La Roche qui pleure (weeping rock), another cliff, where the crashing waves cause big tear shaped wave droplet to fall once the waves have splattered against it.

Found in the south east of Mauritius, more precisely in the middle of the Midlands Dam and the Eau Bleue reservoir in the small village of Bananes, Domaine Lagrave is a 500 hectares haven comprising of vast spaces of almost virgin forests, the Lagrave mountain, flowing rivers, waterfalls and springs which easily get you out of the buildings and cities and take you back in time to the pristine Mauritius. Freely roaming around the park are deer, boars, monkeys, chirping birds flying overhead or eating in the trees much to the delight of nature lovers.

The park has been conserved so as to give off the natural element to make it an ecotourism success as well as a relaxing and unforgettable one. All activities are thus centered on the green notion of preservation such that all vehicles are banned inside the park and rifle shooting is strictly prohibited. Activities include nature walks around the park or up to the Lagrave mountain at 638m altitude where panoramic views of the surroundings (south east of Mauritius, rivers, midlands dam) can be seen, bamboo raft construction, kayaking, fishing, camping, African archery, hikes, abseiling and visits of the lake.

The park is open from 9am to 4pm everyday and to people of all ages. Activities offered at the park are strolls of varying lengths (3km, 6km, 10km) or simple visits of the park at Rs 250/person, orientation races at Rs 500/person, activity days where one of 5 proposed activities can be done (walks, African archery, raft construction and trips/kayaking, VTT, ti-lapia fishing) which also includes lunch, one t-shirt/person and a trophy to the winning team at Rs 1500/person, renting of the park for weddings, engagements, seminars etc at Rs 30,000 and tent camping for a night plus breakfast at Rs 450/person. Menus on the other hand (creole, European, open buffet) range in price from Rs 500 to Rs 1,000.

All excursion packages can be tailor made based on what the visitor is looking for as in treasure hunt, adventure day etc. Visitors can choose walks from maps at the entrance which are colored based on the ease of the path, choose to have lunch at the restaurant or go for a picnic bag to enjoy in the surroundings. Whether in private groups just for fun or a family day out, the park will meet all of your expectations regarding a peaceful day off work and everyday life and will invariably call you back again.

Found atop a hill (Petite Montagne) at about 100 metres altitude is a fort called the Citadel in the city of Port Louis. Situated in a very strategic point with an open view of the harbour and the entire city of Port Louis, the Fort is also called Fort Adelaide after the wife of William 1V dating to when the British possessed the island. Designed by Colonel Cunningham, the fort was built in the beginning of the 19th century and achieved a few years later; Indian and African slaves helped in the building of the fort the purpose of which was to inform the British army of any approaching enemy.

The building itself is made up of large rough rectangular blocks that have turned greyish black over time. It has been made in the Moorish style with horseshoe arches and houses quarters for the army, water gallons and powder reserves. There is supposedly an underground tunnel leading from the fort to the harbour thus providing a quick means to reach the harbour in case of enemy invasion. Fort Adelaide was one of the four forts to be built to defend the island against attackers and which has been successfully saved from ruin unlike the other three forts which are Fort William, Fort George and Fort Victoria also found in Port Louis.

Sadly, shortly after the fort was built, most signs of war threats vanished making the fort useless. Today the fort has been turned into a national monument offering breathtaking views of the city with the tall skyscrapers (Caudan Waterfront, State Bank, Bank of Mauritius), the open ocean and harbour and the Port Louis Moka Ranges as backdrop. It is a common touristic area because of the views that it offers so don’t forget your camera when visiting the fort!
The fort has been renovated and used up to recently as arena for concerts and plays. But all these have ceased now and

Fort Adelaide just stands as an old fort recalling the time when the British feared enemy attack. The fort can be reached via a 10 minutes’ walk up the hill or can be accessed by vehicles via a well paved road. The vegetation around is mostly grass; interestingly the ornate day gecko, endemic to Mauritius, has been spotted in the surroundings. It is a great place to enjoy sunset or to jog for the locals. Actually a revegetation plan is being done at the Citadel where one hectare of land is to be replanted with native trees like the Round Island Hurricane Palm, Velvetleaf Soldierbush, Bois de Pipe to name a few.

One of the best ways to visit the island is by helicopter where an exceptional view of the island is offered: patches of green sugarcane fields, meandering rivers, rocky mountains, white beaches and turquoise lagoons. Everything that you see on TV becomes a reality through a helicopter tour of the island. It is without a doubt one of the best memories you will have once you get into the air at 500m altitude and cruise the island.

Actually Mauritius does not possess many helicopters given that there is no real military service; there are 4 Chetak and 1 Fenrec used for helping in police works and the Dhruv helicopter for rescuing purposes that can fly quite some distance offshore. Air Mauritius, the company that hires the helicopters, has 3 Bell Jet Ranger helicopters (helicopters which were created initially for the US Army but were rejected; they were then redesigned successfully for commercial uses!) for touring the island. The helicopters are modern looking with the white and red colour of the Air Mauritius logo, about 3m in height, 12 m long, with two blades, one pilot cabin and 4 passenger seats; they can move at a rate of 6.9m/s with a maximum speed of 224km/h going up to an altitude of 693km.

Air Mauritius proposes different helicopter activities. They include sightseeing tours where the beautiful scenery of the island is unleashed before your eyes (craters of volcanoes, descending waterfalls and top view of coral reefs); pick up can be made either from the airport or from your hotel. Airport pick up for tours lasting 15minutes are £211, £311 for 30 minutes, £488 for 45 minutes and £577 for an hour. Hotel pick up or from other areas with helipad facilities are at £266 for 15 minutes, £377 for 30minutes, £555 for 45 minutes and £711 for an hour.

Other services are namely direct pick up from the airport to your hotel or vice versa (at £445), flying off to the wonderful golf courses on the island in no time at all (at £1067) and enjoying an hour tour of the island to be dropped off at one of the restaurants with helicopter pads for a two hour lunch (£1333 excluding lunch receipt). The helicopters can also be hired for photo and filming sessions for 15 minutes, 30 minutes, 45 minutes and an hour for £666, £933, £1111 and £1377 respectively.

All fares are for couples; additional fees must be paid for each new passenger. All pilots are thoroughly trained as per the ‘global standards’ guidelines. They also act as tour guides giving tips about the important areas being flown over all the while keeping the passengers safe and secure. The helicopter tour is quite an enjoyable business given that Air Mauritius receives more than 10,000 passengers per year!

Like any other country, Mauritius has got loads of craft makers. Craft products here have a taste of the Mauritian culture in them. Items are made of corals or vacant sea shells found on the beaches; baskets and souvenirs are made of the dried Vacoas plants; jewellery cases are made of wood or bamboo; clothes are hand broidered. Everything that the island provides is turned into beautiful items by those people. And they totally love what they are doing and tend to concentrate on every detail to give life to their products. Craft items can be seen fairly all over the island and is a major source of money for many people.

One of the best places to get involved in the crafts of Mauritius is in the Craft Market of the Caudan Waterfront in Port Louis. Spanning over two storeys (an open floor at the top and a multipurpose market at the bottom), the craft market consists of 40 stalls where the mixed Mauritian population of Indians, Chinese and Africans can be seen working on their artefacts or trying to woo tourists into buying them. The small stalls are of wood giving them an authentic air where paraphernalia of all sorts can be seen: accurate miniature boats, teddy bears, coral made bracelets and necklaces, wooden souvenirs, handmade clothes, scented oils, sugar and tea gift boxes, note books, postcards and so many more.

There is also an NGO, Craft Aid, on the island which aims at bettering the life of the disabled people by offering them a job in the making of craft materials. Founded in 1982, the society employs 175 disabled people working in different parts of the company; they include handicapped, deaf, mute and underprivileged people. Amongst the items that they produce are clothing, bookmarks, photo albums, greeting cards and the packing of sugar, vanilla and dried flowers. These people are encircled by normal employees who are always there to help them out.

It is estimated that about 40% of the female workforce of the island are employed as craft workers, machine operators and in other elementary practices. In order to encourage these women to go forward with their craft businesses (clothing, basket making, souvenirs of all sorts) the government offers loans of low interest rates to start the business and has also come up with a scheme of open days where these women can expose their merchandise for sale at particular locations of the island. Craft in Mauritius is not only a way to make a living; it is also the expression of the creativity of a Mauritian.

Located some 4.5km off the north coast of Mauritius, Gunners Coin is a small islet (some 76 hectares) that has been declared a nature reserve as per the Forests and Reserves Act, 1983. The islet has a high point on the west side at 162m and is otherwise flat; being of volcanic origin, beautiful rough cliffs can be seen where a number of endemic birds nest. The islet is surrounded by turquoise waters making it a good place for swimming and a rich marine life for snorkelling and diving. Some remains of a Catholic and a Hindu shrine can also be noted on the islet.

The vegetation has been modified a lot from what it was in the past; this has been attributed mainly to the introduction of rats and hares that have depredated on the seeds of many native species thus preventing their regeneration. Today, the islet is covered mainly with bushes of grasses such as creeping ones, tangleheads and willows (which make access to the surroundings a bit difficult) and some tree species Abrus, Eugenia, Flacourtia, Santalum and Cordia. Two ecologically important palm species are also found on the islet namely the Pandanus and Latania species. Other plants of conservation values on the islet are Scaevola, Arguisa, Lomatophyllum, Dracaena and Cynanchum.

The fauna of the islet consists of many endemic reptiles including Bojers skink, Boutons skink that reside mainly in the rocky areas; the Ornate day gecko and the lesser night gecko are distributed mainly in the bushes. A number of native birds can also be seen flying around the islet or nesting in the cracks of the cliffs such as the Wedged tail shearwater, the Red tailed tropic bird and the White tailed tropic bird. Common birds like sparrows, doves can be seen in the bushes. There are also 5 species of land snails on Gunners Quoin (with 3 being native to Mauritius) and 3 native butterfly species. In the past, rats, hares and deer were also found over there but because of the damage they were doing to the ecosystem, they have been removed.

Because it is a nature reserve, human activities on the islet is quite restricted though poaching (which is illegal) is still suspected. Access is mainly in the form of ecotourism for diving and snorkelling purposes in the surrounding waters. There is not much data on the islet but a number of tortoises, snakes and skinks are believed to have gone extinct in the 18th century mainly due to the introduction of alien animals and plants. Today, conservation programmes are in full force on the islet to help protect the remnant vegetation left and prevent any more floral and faunal species from going extinct.

The little island of Mauritius was formed when a big shield volcano erupted some 10 million years ago during the Pliocene period. It is believed that Mauritius was created by three main volcanic eruptions (The Ancient Series, The Early Series and the Recent Series) interspaced by calm periods. These series of volcanic activities gave rise to the number of mountains, gorges and valleys that can be seen all over the island. The ranges of Port Louis – Moka and some scattered isolated mountains are believed to be the leftover (walls of the caldera) of the huge volcano that initially created Mauritius. The last volcanic eruptions are thought to have been during the last 600, 000 to 700,000 B.P. and involved mainly about 20 volcanoes found along the North-North-East and South-South-West axis of the island; the last volcanic eruption can be dated to about 20,000 years ago by the L’escalier crater at Nouvelle Decouverte.
There are four main famous volcanoes in Mauritius that are thought to have been active during the past 700,000 years: Trou aux cerfs, Trou Kanaka, Bassin Blanc and Grand Bassin.

Trou aux cerfs, the spitting image of a perfect volcano, is found on the central plateau of the island in Curepipe. It is a monogenetic volcano with a central vent; it has a diameter of 350m at the surface and a crater that is about 80m deep. It is easily accessible and offers a breathtaking view of the island and sometimes when the weather is clear, the coast of the island of La Reunion can even be seen. The crater acts as a catchment area where the Grand River North West and the Tatamaka rivers have their sources.

Grand Bassin also called Ganga Talao by the Hindu population of the island is a beautiful volcano whose crater has been replaced by a natural lake, the water of which is considered as sacred by the Hindus. Located in Savanne, the volcano is at 1800 feet above sea level, irregular in shape and sound techniques have revealed the depth to be about 55-60 feet deep. It offers a beautiful view of the forests bordering the rims of the volcano and is a common place for prayers today.

Basin Blanc is found further south and is a type of funnel shaped crater about half a mile in diameter that is filled with water. Here again, the borders are rich in plants and trees and it is a great place to view some endemic birds of Mauritius such as white tailed tropic bird, Mauritius bulbul, Mauritius cuckoo shrike etc.
Trou Kanaka is also found in the south of the island and resembles a true volcano in shape with shrubs bordering the rims up into the crater.

Other volcanoes with true craters on the island are Verdun Hill, Trou Raoul, Curepipe Point, Bois Cheri, Butte Chaumon, Bar le Duc, L’escalier, Mt Piton and Forbach Hill. Some of the volcanic cones without craters are Mt Virer, Buttes aux Papayes, The Mount, Mt William, Calebasses, Mt Alma, Malherbe, Tamarin Estate, Trou de Mme Bouchet, Mt Perruche and Les Mares.

Also known as the ‘Wild South’, Le Morne Cultural Heritage is an erect mountain of 556 metres with a flat summit of 12 hectares that symbolises the way to freedom to the Creole community of Mauritius. During the 18th and 19th century, slaves on the island used the mountain as a hiding place because of its location and difficulty of access. Research these past years by local and foreign historians have revealed tangible evidence that slaves were indeed hiding there; objects found include bones dating back to that time period as well as kitchen utensils used by them. In 2008, the site became one of the world heritage sites in the world under UNESCO.

In the past, slavery was a common thing and slave trade was being done worldwide; Mauritius, given its wonderful location in the Indian Ocean, was a main point for rest and also a platform for this trade. At the same time, people occupying the island also had their load of slaves to work for them. So, whenever possible, the slaves either working on the island or destined for trade would escape and find refuge on the Le Morne Mountain. Yet this freedom was no easy task; at the time such acts resulted in death and the maroons thus had to live in constant fear of being caught with no food and poor shelter.

In 1835, when slavery was globally abolished, some British soldiers went to deliver the good news to the refugees. But on seeing them approach, the maroons did not know that they were being set free and thus jumped off the mountain into the ocean. In this respect, the 1st February has been proclaimed a public holiday on the island to mark the difficulties that the Creole community has gone through to achieve their freedom.

The mountain itself is of basaltic nature formed some 8-10 million years ago. There are a number of cracks which are believed to have been used as shelters for the slaves (evidence of their presence like bones and utensils has been found in them). The foothills of the mountain is characterised by thick vegetation while the mountain slopes are intertwined with cracks and steep valleys. Interestingly, the site also is home to a few rare plants in the world such as the Trochetia boutoniana and the Mandrinette.

Much of the information concerning the site has been accumulated via oral means of the descendants of the slaves living in the village of Le Morne. The Mauritian community is an amalgam of these slaves (Africa, Madagascar, South East Asia, India) and as such the area is of special importance to each of them; Le Morne Cultural Heritage is a place of liberty intertwined with religious and cultural beliefs, a sacred site for all Mauritians.